Sikou means "river mouth," and this rural township gets it name from the confluence of two rivers, which later combine with other streams to form the all-important Beigang River. It's an agricultural district, and as the importance of farming to Taiwan's economy declines, the population continues to fall. Deserted homesteads - some of considerable architectural value - can be found in every settlement.

That said, so suitable is the land for growing rice - so flat and well watered - that very few plots go unused. While Sikou may not have the temples of Singang, or coastal or mountain scenery, a visit underlines something often forgotten: That even in lowland Taiwan, there is space to stretch out and relax.